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Showing posts with the label Tyndrum

13: Praise of Beinn Dorain (Tyndrum to Inveroran)

Today’s walk is going to be a long one in comparison to the rest of our itinerary.   At nineteen miles with nearly two thousand feet of elevation gain it takes the prize for the most demanding day. Despite this I am excited because we will be staying overnight in the spectacular and historical setting of Glencoe.    To give us the best possible start we arrived at breakfast just as they are laying out the buffet items and we are left to our own devices to collect our food and push slices of bread through the crazy rolling toaster that never actually manages to toast two sides evenly or at all.  The restaurant itself could sit hundreds of people and had long draped tables down each side, all set out as if for a massive banquet.   About half an hour into our breakfast, the hordes from the coach parties descended. The queue increased exponentially and soon it rivalled ‘ The Queue ’, as it had become known, in London for the lying-in-state of the Queen. Queuing is often regarded as a pecul

12: It's rude to remove your boots (Crianlarich to Tyndrum)

At a sign for a massage service above Crianlarich, the paths forked as the Way turned north westward through Plantation forest. The path sloped gently uphill through stands of Sitka spruce and Lodgepole Pine. In the undergrowth was a surprising amount of fungi and in a pleasant glade we sat down and enjoyed our lunch of biscuits and fruit while occasionally heading off to document yet another fungi find. Amanita Puffball Dyer's polypore Don't know The weather, which for most of the morning had been overcast and threatening began to cheer up. Plantation forest is often quite bleak but this particular spot, being so full of fungi, did not feel as oppresive as the forests along the Pennine Way. However as we reached the top the view ahead was of a huge area that was once trees that had recently been cleared and replanted. In the valley we crossed the river Fillan and the main road. On the other side in the ever increasing sunshine we headed towards a curiously weathered sign. Curi

11. Rotten eggs (Inveraranan to Crianlarich)

Old hands will remember what happened on the Pennine Way when my brand new boots started shipping water, were fire damaged and then fell apart. On my return from the Pennine Way I argued the case with the shop and got a refund. Some weeks later I bought a reassuringly expensive German make, they were made of leather, lithe, bold and handsome, and came with a two year guarantee.  Some time later on a Thursday practice walk the three of us had got together. We were walking along the Essex coast line and both Chris and Jerome were bemoaning the state of their boots because of cracks in the leather that appeared to be letting in water. Later that evening as I cleaned off the mud I found to my dismay that similar cracks were occurring. This was two months beyond the guarantee period.  So I went to buy some new boots, this time from a manufacturer which, based upon my own experience, I could trust to be longer-lasting. The first occasion I walked with them I was surprised to get a blister on